Walk in the clouds, soak in the emerald environs, tuck
into piping hot food or wander aimlessly. come, fall in love with
Landsdowne.
The name was stuck in my head.My fauji friends also
insisted that it was the right place for an idyllic holiday.And I was
also looking for a destination that wasnt crowded.So Lansdowne it
was.Leaving Delhi early helped us escape the crazy, rush hour traffic at
Meerut.Crossing Bijnor and Najibabad,we tucked into terrific aloo
paranthas at a Punjabi dhaba and drove through a thickly forested
winding road to Kotdwar,a foothill town that serves as the gateway to
the Garhwal Himalayas.
Following the Kotdwar-Pauri road at a
leisurely pace whilst capturing the scenic beauty with our cameras, we
almost didnt notice the signboard that read Lensdowne.The scent of pine
engulfed us.My first view of Lansdowne was breathtaking tall oaks and
blue pines stood like sentinels on the mountainside.The forests were
dark and deep,just perfect for those long leisurely walks on unknown
trails.A little further, the mighty gates of Garhwal Rifles Regimental
Centre announced our arrival at Lansdowne.
Perched at 6,000
ft, Lansdowne,originally known as Kalundanda, is home to many valiant
Garhwalis. In 1887, the British, on the suggestion of the District
Collector of Pauri, and after getting approval from the top brass of the
British Empire, established Kalundanda as a military base and renamed it
after the then Viceroy of India,Lord Lansdowne.The Garhwal Rifles
Regiment set up its headquarters here in 1921, and since then, has
maintained and preserved the ecological balance of this heritage
military station.
The small town square and the main marketplace that
flanks both sides of the tiny street,has a number of eating joints.But
we left these behind,to drive up a little further, past the GMVN Tourist
Bun galow,to a road that led us to Fairydale Resort.True to its name, the
resort built in 1902 is set amidst fairytale
surroundings.Khandelwalji, host and manager, had organised piping hot
lunch and once that was over, advised us on what to see and do in this
quaint town.
First on our hastily put together itinerary was
Tip-in-Top.If youre the kind whos obsessed with the Himalayas like I am
youll love this place for the spectacular views of the mountains.My
camera went click click click,until I noticed the menacing clouds that
threatened to burst any minute.Hurrying back to the car,we decided to
visit St Marys church,barely half-a-kilometre away.
Constructed in
1896 on the upper Mall,the church resonated with choirs and prayers till
Independence.Over the years,it fell into a state of neglect and rapid
decline.It was restored to its former state of glory by the local
regiment.The beauty of the church was not lost on us,as we admired the
stained glass windows.From there,we moved to St Johns church located in
the midst of the forest and the Garhwal Rifles Regimental War
Memorial, which was unveiled by Lord Rawlinson of Trent, the then
Commander in Chief of India,on Armistice Day, November 11,1923.Located at
Parade Ground,it is a major attraction for tourists.
Back in the
town square for a quick tea break, Santoshi Mata temple,located on a
hillock was our next destination.The climb was laborious, but the view
from the temple worth the effort.Situated at the highest point of
Lansdowne,the temple is surrounded by oak trees and rhododendron
shrubs.The tinkling of hundreds of bells added to the temples charm.
Our
last stop for the day was Bhulla Taal, an artificial lake built in
2003. Bhulla, meaning younger brother in Garhwali, refers to the jawans of
the Regimental Centre who toiled day and night to create the dam and the
lake. It is a popular tourist spot. Many families enjoyed boat rides,kids
frolicked in the park, while we enjoyed the view from a machaan next to
the lake.
At dawn the next day,we left for Tarkeshwar Mahadev
temple, some 40 km away on the Lansdowne-Dehriyakhal road.No other
vehicle was in sight as the car caressed the roads edges and ate up the
distance. A diversion from the main road, another six kilometres on a
non-metalled stretch, a short walk through pouring rain, and we were
standing in a setting that seemed straight out of paradise.A temple
stood in the midst of towering cedar trees. No matter how hard I tried
and whatever angle I took, I couldnt capture a single tree in one
frame.After offering prayers at a shivling, (believed to be buried inside
the earth),we lazed around.Since it was still a while before we needed
to get back,we decided to explore the surroundings.From the end of the
road, an elderly Garhwali gave us company for the last kilometre till we
reached a conical hill at 6,100 ft.The excursion,which was supposed to
be just a nature walk,turned out to be a visit to another historical
site. Apparently, this is where the historical battle between the British
and Gorkha troops took place in 1814.The fading light allowed me to
catch a glimpse of the River Eastern Nayar,gleaming on the floor of the
valley.
Back at Lansdowne,after yet another sumptuous feast at
Fairydale, we took a stroll through its pristine surroundings. But it had
to be abruptly called off.A fog played spoilsport, pushing us back to the
safe confines of the resort.
WHAT TO EAT
For a
town having just a handful of restaurants,the variety on offer is quite
surprising. You can sample Chinese, Mughlai and South Indian fare. But dont
miss out on Tipsys gigantic aloo paranthas, Mayurs chaat and
steaming-hot momos. Also dont forget to carry back some chocolate burfi
for folks home from Mishrajis Mithai Shop
WHERE TO STAY
There
are a few private hotels and lodges, in addition to Garhwal Mandal Vikas
Nigams tourist bungalow. A good option is Fairydale Resort.
WHAT TO DO
Nothing!
Just take a break! Enjoy the sunrise at Tip-in-Top,a boat ride in
Bhulla Taal, the trek to Dehriyakhal, a walk through Lovers Lane and
practise those swings at the Army golf course.
TIPS
Do
not even think of littering in the town. If caught, the army will fine
you heavily. Over speeding and riding without a helmet are prohibited
too. Keep a look out for leopards while enjoying those walks especially
at night.There are at least four leopards that have made the forest
around Lansdowne, their home. Trek in the early hours to Rathi Point,which
provides glorious views of the rising sun.To get the best out of the
trek,start from Khyber point (6 km).It takes you through meadows of wild
flowers and spectacular views of mountains awash with the golden rays
of the rising sun.Learn about the rich cross-culture of Lansdowne, a
great mix of Garhwali,Kumaoni and Rajasthani cultures.
